There are two versions of me. The first is the sensible 42 year old mum who knows her limits and yes, finds comfort in the well-known. The second is the one who has a longstanding envy of skiers and all those picture perfect ski families. I’d look longingly at the stunning, snowy mountain scenes, the après fun and the impossibly chic outfits on social media and have FOMO for the whole cinematic moment.
Skiing lived permanently in my “one day” pile; not because I didn’t want it, but because I was worried I’d spend a fortune discovering it wasn’t for me. Unless you’ve been brought up skiing, or have an ‘other half’ who is into it, it can seem a big leap to take. in my case a family of four into something so unknown, no matter how amazing it looks on the ‘gram’. Add in the climate guilt that can creep into winter travel and it was always far too easy to just keep scrolling, rather than to actually book the trip. I knew that if I ever did, Morzine was top of my list after a late summer visit last year.
Then the universe decided to push me out of my comfort zone and an email landed in my inbox that challenged my whole ‘maybe one Day’’ mindset. It was an invitation to Morzine for three nights on a ski press trip with AliKats Mountain Holidays and Morzine Tourist Office, on behalf of H&N Magazine. The travel journalist in me was instantly thrilled and excited. The 42-year-old mum in me was cautiously wary. As much as this would be a beginner friendly introduction (including ski lessons with ESF), there was still a very real wobble brewing underneath all the excitement!
Could I actually learn to ski without humiliating myself or freezing to death? Would I fall off a chairlift? How do you carry skis without taking out a passerby? Would a ski trip really live up to my expectations, or would it be a case of Instagram versus reality? I was about to find out…
What did sound very enticing from the start however, was a chance to experience chalet life in a modern and considered, sustainable way. Still indulgent (of course) but with sustainability a key component too. After visiting the region last summer, I was eager to experience Morzine in the winter, as I had learned then about how the resort is leaning into practical measures that reduce impact. There are free winter shuttles, a more pedestrian-friendly centre and they have community projects aimed at cutting waste and emissions.
My hosts, family-run AliKats, have built their name on design-led chalets with a values-led backbone; from renewable energy and lower-toxic operations to long-running food waste reduction and a “responsible hot tub” approach designed to cut water and energy use. They describe their chalets as “so good you might forget to go skiing”, so staying in one of their new properties felt like a very exciting prospect indeed.
So I said ‘yes’. Mission accepted, it was time to figure out what all the fuss was about, test the limits of my mum-bod and discover if a skiing holiday really is a great as it looks online!
Heathrow to the Haute-Chablais
Before the skis, comes the destination (and the logistics). If you’re ski-curious, Morzine is a brilliant starting point as it is a proper Alpine town in the Portes du Soleil, with around 600km of pistes, easy links over to Avoriaz and Les Gets from the same base, plus plenty to do off the slopes. It’s also easy to reach, as getting to Morzine is very straightforward. I flew from London Heathrow to Geneva (British Airways fares can start from around £107pp each way, depending on dates), and then took a private transfer into the resort. Geneva to Morzine is typically around 1h 30 minutes – 2 hours (conditions depending), with increasingly beautiful scenery unveiling itself the closer to Morzine you get. I travelled with Skiidy Gonzales (private return transfers are priced from around €116/£97).
Chalet La Bise: luxury with intention
I stayed at Chalet La Bise in Morzine and couldn’t have wished for a better base. It’s a six-bedroom chalet sleeping up to 14, with a central location and big, beautiful views across snowy pines and peaks. I felt instantly relaxed and also genuinely wowed from the moment I walked in. Vaulted timber ceilings, warm lighting, underfloor heating… it’s all wonderfully welcoming. Each bedroom has its own personality, and every one comes with a spacious, luxurious en-suite that feels really boutique and high end. The open living and dining space is the heart of the chalet; hugely convivial and designed for ultimate relaxation. Absolutely everything – the kitchen, each piece of furniture, fittings, textures – scream quality and has been chosen and curated with real taste.
The chalet also has what must be the holy trinity of post-ski living; its own hot tub (complete with mountain views), an outdoor barrel sauna and a huge, heated boot room (trust me when I say that your toes will be oh-so thankful for this!). La Bise really does turn your post-ski reset into a luxurious experience all round!
What makes it even more impressive is that this level of comfort is paired with real sustainability. AliKats is B Corp-certified, so being environmentally friendly is an integral part of the guest experience. Chalet La Bise is fitted with an air source heat pump, and across the wider AliKats portfolio they highlight 100% renewable energy, chemical-free/low-toxic cleaning and toiletries, plus a long-running focus on reducing food waste. For guests, they have thoughtful incentives and practical nudges too; like rewards for lower-impact travel choices (including train travel) and a responsible hot tub initiative designed to reduce water and energy use. In short: it’s a super-luxe, high-comfort chalet, run with choices that prioritise the mountains.
Choose-your-own catering options
AliKats offer super-flexible self-catering options. This is perfect for those of you who might, like me, love good food but have zero interest in spending the trip doing supermarket runs and/or arguing about whose turn it is to cook. With AliKats, you can keep it simple and cook with local produce, head out and explore Morzine’s restaurant scene, or upgrade with optional extras like private chef nights and meal deliveries. There’s also a fully catered package (from £298/€345 per adult per week, minimum six adults, with reduced rates for children 12 and under), or a five-day meal delivery option (from £172/€200 per adult, minimum eight adults). And if you want maximum ease from the moment you arrive, you can even pre-order shopping, meaning you walk into a stocked fridge including chilled wine without stepping into a store.
On our first night, AliKats Co-Founder Kat Judge cooked for us at the chalet, which was such a treat. It was comforting, expertly and beautifully done, and served with an unobtrusive warmth. The second evening was a raclette evening. AliKats dropped off the cheese, varieties of bread, vegetables, meats and other ingredients alongside a tabletop raclette grill, so we could create our own evening of pure chalet cosiness.
First-timer heaven: ski logistics made effortless
If you’re new to skiing, there’s a whole kit, process and language that can feel totally alien at first. Boots, poles, skis… getting to grips with all of it was a genuine concern, but AliKats can take the stress out of these practicalities by arranging ski hire (and even lift passes) to be delivered directly to your chalet. I opted for this service, so on the first evening, a Ski Mobile van pulled up outside and fitted my boots, then sorted the right length poles and skis based on my height and weight. I popped everything straight into the chalet’s heated boot room, ready for the next day and my first time on the slopes. If I was going to be clanking around like a baby giraffe, at least I’d be clanking around with the confidence that I had the correctly fitted kit.
(A six-day adult hire is priced from around €90/£75, with children’s pricing varying by age.) I’d fully recommend this service as a first-timer – it’s reassuring how quickly what feels alien can become known and familiar with a bit of help and guidance from the experts!
Learning to Ski with ESF
The next morning, I took Morzine’s free shuttle to the Pléney lift. The shuttle picked up from just outside the chalet and I can’t overstate how helpful that is. With regular shuttles throughout the day, Morzine is a genuinely accessible, stress-free resort. Upon arrival I was greeted by my ESF instructor, Alice, for my first proper lesson. France has done something great with skiing: there it’s not treated as an elite sport reserved for the mega-rich. There’s a national infrastructure of ski schools, and ESF is woven into resort life in a way that makes coaching feel normal and reachable for everyone from tots to adults who are starting late and (like me) trying not to panic.
If you’re not familiar with skiing, give yourself some grace and prepare to feel rather unsure to start. The kit feels strange, the boots feel tight, the ski lift is a scary thought and, as an adult, learning something new in public can make you feel quite vulnerable. But ESF are great at managing and allaying first day fears; they simply start you where you are. I began with the absolute basics: how to put on skis, how to move on flat ground, how to side step up a slope and how to use the “magic carpet” conveyor and – importantly- how to stop (the famous pizza / snowplough!). After a surprisingly short 15 minutes, I was already going down the baby slope, with Alice in front of me, guiding all the way.
Despite my nerves, I soon glimpsed the thrill of gliding down an (albeit fairly small) slope. It’s a total rush. By the end of the first 45 minutes, I’d progressed from “how do I clip in my skis?” to (mostly) controlled pizza turns and enough confidence to move beyond the nursery area onto gentle green and blue runs. I also did not fall off the magic carpet nor the ski lift! This is a personal triumph I’d like printed on a certificate!
Just over an hour into the lesson and I progressed to the cute yet deceptively named “Penguin Park”. My brain understandably filed this run under “obviously for children”. But looking down the twisty turns it was… well, quite formidable actually! The course glides you around corners, over mini crescents and playful undulations and although, yes, lots of super-fast children were whizzing past me, it was undeniably a challenge for a newbie like me. I was concentrating so hard, I forgot to be scared (even though I did take a few tumbles!) and after finishing it, I was breathless and ridiculously proud. This is why these fun zones work so well; they are exhilarating and chaotic, but they are so much fun and give you a massive sense of achievement.
Beginner tips: Morzine for first-timers
- Book lessons early. Even a single two hour session can fast-track confidence and stop you learning bad habits.
- Choose the right time of day. Mornings are feel calmer and less churned-up underfoot.
- Start small. Nursery slope, then green, then that first blue (when you’re ready).
- Make logistics easy. If you can arrange ski hire and lift passes to be delivered, do it! Less hassle and more energy for learning.
- Pack smarter than you think. Thin layers beat bulky ones and spare gloves are worth their weight in gold.
Après at Le Tremplin: the most iconic toilet break in the Alps
No skiing trip to the Alps would be complete without sampling the famous après ski. After my first day on the slopes, I headed Le Tremplin, a bar which is perched at the foot of Pléney. This is a great post-ski spot as it has that end-of-day buzz I’d always pictured. Hundreds of skis are propped up outside, everyone is dancing in their ski gear and boots with an Aperol in hand, plus the toilets are accessed by a slide! Naturally, I tried it… both the Aperol and the slide, very much in that order.
After all, walking down (and up) steps in ski boots is tricky. The slide is therefore a genius idea, albeit faster than I anticipated, and just when you think it can’t possibly get better… you arrive at the bottom to discover a disco-toilet. This might have to be the most iconic bathroom break of my adult life!
Why Morzine works so well as a ski destination
Morzine sits at the heart of the Portes du Soleil, one of Europe’s biggest ski areas, but still very much retains it’s lovely traditional village vibe. There are cafés, shops, delis and bars you’d visit even if you weren’t skiing (it’s not one of those purpose-built resorts that empties out at 4pm).
On the snow itself, the Morzine/Les Gets area has a strong focus on accessible learning zones. The Pléney/Nyon side offers wide, panoramic slopes that help you find rhythm, plus dedicated beginner areas with carpet lifts.
There are playful features too: Penguin Park and themed runs like Chemin des Zouzous are designed to make skiing feel less intimidating and more of an experience. Because Morzine is so well-connected, you can grow into bigger terrain without changing base. You can link into Avoriaz for higher-altitude snow and long, cruisy pistes, or hop over to Les Gets for tree-lined runs and a more traditional feel. It’s absolutely ideal for mixed-ability groups and families.
Other activities to try: snowshoeing to Lac de Mines d’Or and Morzine village
Not every alpine memory has to be high-adrenaline. The next day we swapped skis for snowshoes and headed to Lac de Mines d’Or with Chrys from Morzine Tourist Office. It was a gorgeous part of the trip. Skiing is brilliant, but winter in the Alps is also about appreciating the stunning landscape; pine forests dusted white, the snow crunching underfoot and those incredible mountain vistas.
Showshoeing is a fantastic activity that allows you to really appreciate the landscape at ground level; no ski lifts, no speed but a peaceful, alpine hush at a slower pace. Our excursion was followed by a delicious lunch at La Crapahute, which is a cosy mountain restaurant in an idyllic elevated position, with great views and where the staff gave such a warm welcome.
Make time to explore Morzine village, too. I headed into the heart to visit Montagne Verte, a local association founded in 2019, focused on practical solutions to reduce the region’s environmental impact. Their projects range from encouraging low-carbon travel (including the AlpinExpress Pass, which rewards travellers arriving by train with discounts in resort), to practical circular initiatives like second-hand clothing and ski gear. There are some genuinely great bargains to be had on gloves, layers and kit for all ages; brilliant whether you’re kitting yourself out for less, upgrading without waste, or (in the case of families) replacing those inevitable lost kids’ gloves without spending a small fortune.
Later, I had a horse-drawn carriage ride through the village (from around €20/£17 total for up to four people) and it was such a charming way to see Morzine at a slower pace and really appreciate the twinkly village atmosphere. The ride lasted around 25 minutes and (as if it couldn’t get cuter) the woman steering the horse had her adorable dog riding along, making the whole thing even more wholesome.
From ski-curious to quietly converted
Overall, Morzine is a brilliant choice for your next (or very first) ski trip. It’s gentle enough to learn without feeling overwhelmed, but big enough to grow into as your confidence builds; with plenty of non-ski moments to balance the trip too.
Skiing is one of those things that looks effortless when other people do it but can feel hilariously unglamorous and awkward when you’re learning. But there’s a genuine, addictive satisfaction in the progression from first controlled stop to then the first run where you’re actually enjoying yourself. And having AliKats’ Chalet La Bise as a base makes that whole experience feel not only doable, but genuinely luxurious; a hot tub under the stars, the sauna, and the heated boot room.
But the real luxury here is being able to dial the holiday admin all the way down and let AliKats take care of the rest.
Would I go back? Without a doubt! I might even have accidentally unlocked a new personality trait. Ski life has entered the chat permanently (and a family trip is pending)…
Morzine and AliKats
Stay: Chalet La Bise (AliKats Mountain Holidays)
- Six-bedroom, all-ensuite chalet (sleeps up to 14) with hot tub, outdoor barrel sauna, heated boot room, suntrap terrace and mountain views
- Price: from £5,616 / €6,500 per week (self-catered, 2025/26 season, up to 14 people), including AliKats team support
- Book / info: https://alikats.eu/
- Food options: https://alikats.eu/experience/food-and-drink/
Travel
- Flights London Heathrow – Geneva: from £107pp each way (British Airways; prices vary by date)
Lift passes (guide prices shared)
- Six-day Morzine–Les Gets: €258 / £223 adult, €231 / £200 child
Ski hire (guide pricing shared)
- Six-day hire with Ski Mobile: adult from €90 / £75 (child pricing varies by age)
Lessons + activities
- ESF private lesson (2 hours, up to two people): from €124 / £108 (group options also available)
- Horse-drawn carriage ride (up to four people): from €20 / £17 total (bookable directly)
- Snowshoeing: check Morzine Tourist Office for current routes and bookings
Review and images by Victoria Reddington @vic_reddington
