It’s a phrase we’re hearing a lot of lately, but it’s not just the latest travel buzz word, there’s so much more to it than that. In a recent visit to the Netherlands, I explored this trending travel phenomenon to find out what exactly slow travel means.
The first thing I discovered was that the concept of slow travel is not just about the travel itself. That’s certainly part of it, but slow travel is the antidote to the traditional dash and flurry of a fortnights holiday in an interchangeable all-inclusive hotel in sunnier climes.
The concept is about getting under the skin of the destination as well as taking your time with the journey and appreciating more than just the weather and the cocktails! It invites you to really notice the world around you, to savour new experiences and create lasting memories.
I for one, am definitely guilty of rushing to get to my destination as soon as possible, often armed with digital distractions to keep me entertained and hopefully make the journey pass quickly. The idea of slowing things right down and taking a rail journey from my home in the north of England to the Netherlands seemed like madness, the flight would be so much quicker! It was clear that I needed to adjust my settings from the very start of this adventure!
The trip on Eurostar from London Saint Pancras to Rotterdam takes approximately 4 hours and prices start from around £80. It has to be said, there is something very relaxing about sitting back, enjoying a glass of wine and watching the countryside roll by as you travel through France and Belgium, enjoying a hot meal, before arriving at your destination in the Netherlands. Onward connections from Rotterdam are excellent, and the journey from Rotterdam to Grongingen takes around two and half hours, pre book prices from around £27.
So, armed with my curiosity and a sturdy pair of walking boots I set off in search of some slow tourism highlights in the very north of the Netherlands, in the area around Groningen, to share with you and hopefully inspire your own adventures!
The Bird-Hide at Kiekkaaste
For nature lovers and photographers alike, this spectacular hide is a wonderful setting. The black wooden structure stands out starkly against the massive, dramatic skies.
In small groups (small groups are very on-message for slow travel!) you can take a guided walk out to the hide, with a local expert who will help you identify birds and their calls. Depending upon the time of year the lucky twitcher could witness massive bird migrations as flocks make their way south for the winter. They use the wetlands as a kind of bird service station, stopping in to rest and feed before continuing their journey!
It’s about a 15-minute walk from the carpark (and the little coffee and cake stall!) out to the hide, along a little wooden walkway through the reed beds. The path is plenty wide enough for two people to pass, but every time I looked down through the slats my legs went to jelly!
The intrepid walkers are rewarded though, the view is breath-taking. You can expect to see sandpipers, plovers and if you are very lucky you might catch sight of a white-tailed eagle!
Seals and porpoises are regularly spotted here – don’t forget to pack your binoculars, as you can see for miles out across the Dollard.
The Bird Hide at Kiekkaaste can be found at
9688 TN Dollard
Coöperatie de Graanrepubliek
This place is an enormous distillery, meeting and venue space, restaurant and bar, all standing as a monument to grain. Ancient grains in fact. Using ancient grains, the Coöperatie de Graanrepubliek restored 150 hectares of land to be used for nature friendly agriculture.
Those ancient grains grow more slowly and taller than the adapted commercial varieties so the harvest tends to be small compared to current to commercial standards. It’s safe to say what they lose in yield they definitely make up for in flavour. I have never tasted bread like it!
The team here are so passionate about the quality of soil that they’ve created here, they have actually distilled it!
Yes, I’m here to tell you that you can distil clay! And yes, of course I had to try it. It’s quite a strange taste. I was getting a salty, seaweed flavour while many in the group could test the soil. The Dollard Whisky distilled here was much, much better!
Visitors to the Coöperatie de Graanrepubliek can expect to inspect the land and ‘walk on the soil’ with the farmers before enjoying a spot of lunch, or maybe a testing session. Opening hours vary so always be sure to book in advance.
Coöperatie de Graanrepubliek can be found at
Oudezijl 1
Bad Nieweschans
Groningen
Proef|Lokkal
I have to say at the outset that this was the best vegan fine dining that I have ever tasted.
This is not a vegan restaurant, but the vegan offering was absolutely fabulous. Layers of intense flavour beautifully presented and paired wherever possible with local wines. It was a feast for my eyes as well as my tastebuds!
The team at Proef|Lokkal work to the five principles of Dutch cuisine which, incidentally, fit very nicely with the ethos of slow travel;
Culture – The dish must reflect the location and the season.
Health – The food must be good for the diner and for the planet.
Nature – It must be at harmony with nature.
Quality – It must be of the highest quality.
Value – It must work to protect the future.
They also strive for an 80/20 approach where 80% of the ingredients are local and 20% are from elsewhere in the world. This also means that 80% of the dishes consist of vegetables and 20% meat or fish (unless you’re vegan of course!)
You can taste those principles in every single mouthful, which makes this restaurant a must-visit if you are ever in Dokkum.
Proef|Lokkal can be found at
Markt 30A
9101 LS Dokkum
The Ziltepad is a new initiative encouraging visitors to walk or cycle on mapped trail from Oostrom to Hornhuizen (or vice versa) visiting beautifully preserved churches en route!
The communities have joined together around the churches to offer visitors different experiences when possible. Maybe cookies and coffee in one church, yoga and meditation in another. It’s such a wonderful initiative and a fantastic way of keeping these ancient sanctuaries alive and in use.
A map is provided, it’s an easy route to follow but don’t worry if you deviate – all the churches are built on the highest pieces of ground so you can see them across large distances and get right back on track.
I love this idea. The building themselves are steeped in history and they are open to everyone. Should you arrive and find the door locked there will be instructions as to how you can gain access. In the warmer months there are options to stay in the churches overnight too. If you do get the opportunity, the yoga in church is really quite something and exactly what you need to stretch you out if you cycled all the route!
You can start the route at the Oostrum Church
Terpleane 11
9125 EE Oostrum
Paesens-Moddergat
You can’t visit the area without exploring the coastline of the twin villages of Paesens-Moddergat.
These charming villages have a dark and tragic history. In 1883 a terrible storm took the lives of all the fisherman, leaving the women to mourn for the rest of their lives.
Now the coastline is UNESCO World Heritage Site. This sea, coastline here and the Frisian Islands are so critical to migrating birds that the whole area is protected. The mudflats are teaming with life and the sand on the beach is made up entirely of shells, it makes the most amazing sound in the waves!
The Museum ‘t Fiskershuiske has facilities and even a quick knot-tying station if you fancy yourself as a bit of a ‘knottologist’! You can book in for a guided hike of the area and there is a super cute tearoom nearby which will warm you up when you are finished.
The museum can be found at
Fiskerspaad 4-8a
9142 VN Moddergat
In keeping with slow travel, all of the activities outlined in this article are enjoyed at a leisurely pace, and you will surely feel a deeper connection with the Netherlands and the natural world by the end of your visit.
The Dutch have a saying ‘Er gaat niets boren Groningen’ – ‘There is nothing above Groningen’.
That’s not true. I’ve been and it’s beautiful.
Thanks for reading!
Sally
*In the interests of transparency, I was only able to ‘slow travel’ one-way on the train/Eurostar due to train strikes in the UK.
Images supplied by Sally Bendall @girlaboutleeds.
Some images supplied.
