Switzerland has a way of weaving magic into even the most ordinary of days. A train ride feels like a moving postcard; a meal comes with a story and a block of cheese carries centuries of tradition.
On a recent trip to Switzerland organised by Emmi Cheese UK, we set out to explore not just the taste of Swiss cheese but the places, people and rituals behind it. What unfolded was a wonderful journey taking me from the underground sandstone caves of Kaltbach to the high alpine pastures of the Justistal Valley, where the centuries-old Chästeilet Festival celebrates the very essence of Swiss rural life.
The first day began with a hearty hotel breakfast at the Radisson Blu in Zurich Airport, where we had spent the night so that we could be fresh for the start of our 48 hour cheesy adventure! Travelling with a group, breakfast time also meant we all got acquainted and before you know it, we were laughing and walking to our designated minibus for the day.
By mid-morning, we were on the road to Sursee, with conversations flowing on everything from cheese to past trips we have loved and what to expect on this press trip. Our hosts for the trip arranged a lovely light lunch with the locals at Iiheimisch restaurant which offers selective dishes with native flavours and very cool Swiss city vibes.
After lunch, we were whisked off to Kottwil to meet dairy farmer Thomas Schweisser who welcomed us into his world with open arms and hair nets! Inside the Emmenthal dairy farm, we saw wheels of cheese taking shape and exactly what goes into the process. Having a tour of the farm, made me appreciate cheese a whole lot more and it was refreshing to see somebody so passionate about this craft! We soon learnt this was a common occurrence within the industry and country.
Emmi Cheese is Switzerland’s largest dairy company which was founded back in Lucerne back in 1970. Today Emmi still sources most of its milk from Switzerland‘s small family farms (like Thomas’s) and exports to more than 60 countries. Emmi is also responsible for the premium brand Kaltbach which is their award-winning cheese range. If you have seen the three letters AOP after the cheese name such as Le Gruyere AOP, it stands for ‘Appellation d’Origine Protegee (which is French for Protected Designation of Origin). With strict quality standards AOP is the gold seal of approval in the cheese world and the Kaltbach brand boasts authenticity and quality.
After a very immersive tour of the Emmenthal dairy farm, it was time to get my hands on some cheese and try the final product. We had a very special tasting of the finest Emmenthal, Gruyere and some soft goat cheeses before heading off to our next stop. With newfound knowledge on the cheese process, it was off to the legendary caves hidden within the sandstone hills of Kaltbach, the natural 22-million-year-old caves are a wonder of both geology and gastronomy.
All geared up in more protective clothing and hairnets, we walked through the cool, humid tunnels where cheese matures slowly, absorbing the very essence of the cave walls. We had the pleasure of being shown around by Roland Ziswiler who is Head of Production for Kaltbach.
Housing up to 120,000 wheels of cheese at one time, the Kaltbach caves supply Gruyere, Emmentaler and other specialty cheeses to global markets. The cave isn’t just for storage, the wheels are turned, brushed and washed whilst they mature and soak up the caves natural moisture and aromas. This underground cheese vault, boasts constant natural conditions of humidity which is what makes it ideal for aging cheese.
The tasting that followed was nothing short of extraordinary — bold, nutty flavours with a complexity that only time and love can create. The Kaltbach team gave us samples of pretty much every single cheese of their range to try which spans from Gruyere AOP, Emmental AOP as well as Kaltbach, creamy Gouda and truffle. They had us grazing like cows for over an hour and only breaking eating to drink some wine. As you can imagine, I was in my element and who wouldn’t be with copious amounts of some of the finest Swiss cheese ever made at your fingertips!
Now will be a good time to mention that the Kaltbach collection is available in Waitrose, Booths and Ocado and from October, the Kaltbach creamy pre pack range launches in M&S. For those of you who are cheese lovers and know the brand already, you may have also purchased the range in an independent fine food store or a specialist cheesemongers.
The day’s travels ended in Thun, where we checked into the charming Hotel Krone followed by a real showstopping dinner. Just a short taxi ride took us to Schloss Schadau – a castle (yes castle!), perched on the edge of Lake Thun. As the sun dipped behind the Alps, we dined in a setting that felt like something from a fairytale.
Early the next morning, we set off by bus and shuttle to the Justistal Valley for the next part of our experience – Chästeilet Festival, a celebration that has taken place here for centuries.
The concept is simple. Farmers bring the summer’s cheese, made high in the alpine pastures and divide it fairly among themselves. Around 11am, the ritual begins with wheels of golden cheese stacked, raffled and distributed with precision. Viewing this annual ceremony first hand is the epitome of understanding not just cheese, but Swiss culture. Nature in Switzerland clearly rules and this alpine festival celebrates that very fact.
Another of the most momentous parts of the festival is watching the herd of cows parading down the mountains dressed in flower crowns and bells. As they decline, crowds follow and celebrate the livestock making their return at the end of the season.
For visitors like me, the festival is a feast for the senses! Endless food stands with regional cheeses and goodies, the sound of cowbells echoing and the sight of villagers and travellers mingling over steaming mugs of coffee, schnapps or wine. It’s part market, part community gathering and wholly unforgettable.
After a remarkable window into Swiss culture, it was time to head back to Zurich. We retraced our steps from shuttle, to bus and then the train back to the airport in just a few hours (the efficiency of Swiss travel felt like its own luxury).
In only two days, we’d crossed landscapes and timeframes, from the ancient caves of Kaltbach to the oldest traditions of the Chästeilet Festival and what tied it all together was cheese. Humble, everyday cheese. The way in which nature is celebrated here made me realize that sometimes we do need to take a step back, slow down and truly honour the gift of the land. The mountains are not just a pretty backdrop they are the living presence which are treated with the respect they deserve every day in Switzerland, both by humans and animals.
It may have been a bit of whirlwind trip but I quickly learnt so much about Switzerland’s culture, community and craftsmanship. How in tune the country is with its pastures and just how sacred cows are in this whole process of Swiss cheese making. I got to celebrate the end of the season and eat some of the best cheese I’ve ever eaten straight from the source!
Review and Images by Zoe Laing @_zozogram_
