My husband Graham and I were warmly greeted at the Crafthouse in Leeds as we stepped out of the glass elevator onto the fifth floor of the Trinity Shopping Centre. I think as much due to the ascent as to the sophisticated dark oak and marble interior we could almost imagine we were in Manhattan.
The elevated position of this sumptuous restaurant affords views over the skyline of Leeds which if you take the time to look at, is rather impressive. I’ve been going to Leeds regularly since childhood and like most shoppers, visitors and theatre goers, we never really take a moment to look up. Crafthouse comes with a spectacular view!
We were at the Crafthouse to experience the tasting menu with carefully selected accompanying wines and a wonderful experience it was.
It was a Tuesday evening; Leeds was abuzz and the restaurant exuded a sense of calm and tranquillity. En route to our table we espied the private dining area accommodating the end of an evening business/supper meet of about twelve people. What a way to continue and close a busy day at the office, concluding business matters with a change of scene, good food and a glass or two of something nice.
Especially as we are now allowed back in the room. The days (and evenings) of home cooking between Zoom calls are well and truly behind us. The restaurant itself was busy with clusters of diners and couples. The subtle lighting gives a warm welcome and we felt instantly that we were in good company.
Let’s talk tasting menus. In the past I’ve encountered menus that have either left me hungry for more or desperate to push away from the table and say “no more please” as the waiter heads over with your desert. It’s all about balance, isn’t it? Graham and I did experience the most wonderful seven course “degustation” in Chateau Neuf du Pape, with accompanying wines from the cellar that was truly sublime. Credit where it’s due to the Crafthouse, their tasting menu and delivery was the closest we’ve ever got to that wonderful evening at Chateaux des Fines Roche.
The amuse bouche of Whipped Goat’s Cheese Roll with fennel crumb and salted honey gel arrived and I was a little worried as Graham hates fancy cheeses. He will tell you he’s a ‘dull boring cheddar’ kind of guy (only when it comes to cheese I hasten to add). No worries. He wolfed it down and loved it. It was really light and the addition of the fennel and salted honey created a lovely diversion. I loved the smoky lightness and it definitely took the edge off the hunger pangs.
Mushroom and Oxtail Tart, poached quail egg, truffle and onion espuma up next and this was quite the work of art. The tart was small but perfectly formed, the poached egg cooked to perfection and the espuma was fluffy and packed lovely flavours which worked brilliantly with the contents in the tart. Washed down with a glass of Prunotto, Dolcetta D’alba 2018 and our waiter gave us a full run down of the accompanying wines. Here I must confess to a lack of wine snobbery on our part. We either love it and enjoy it or don’t love it and endure it! We loved every wine that Ryan put before us; enough said.
Fish course then and this was outstanding. Brown Butter Poached Coley with Jerusalem artichoke and smoked mussel sauce. Again, portion sizes just right and the fish was fluffy, flaky and light with the sauce adding just the right amount of juice. Accompanid by a lovely crisp Vinho Verde, Vila Nova 2020.
Graham loves lamb. It’s our ‘go to’ Sunday roast option when the family descend and so he was chuffed to bits to see Lamb Loin and Shoulder, with smoked potato salsify, cime di rapa. When our plates arrived we did a silent fist pump and could not wait to get stuck in. The lamb was perfectly pink, the smoked potato was light and smooth and the cime di rapa added a little bit of greenery to bring the sum of all parts together. Before the delivery of every course Ryan delivered the accompanying wine so we were good to go as each plate descended. With this course we enjoyed a lovely glass of full bodied Kekfrankos, Blues Monopole 2018.
At this point Graham and I both noted that we were not experiencing that uncomfortable, overfull feeling that I alluded to earlier, so when a cheese course of Lincolnshire Poacher French Toast, Marigold quince menbrillo with a glass of Graham’s, Tawny 10-year Port arrivedwe had room to enjoy. Surprisingly for me and as Graham pointed his ‘dull’cheese tendencies out to the waiter, he actually loved this.
I am not a lover of sweet with savoury, so the quince was a little too much for me however it was a light way to deliver a lovely cheese course and we still had just enough room for dessert.
Salted Caramel Tart, cornflake ice cream, drunken raisins accompanied by a lovely pudding wine, Monbazillac, Domaine De Grange Neuve 2018. Just when I thought I might struggle to finish there it was…gone! Heavenly it was too! Especially clever was the addition and use of cornflakes; crunchy, flavourful, nostalgic and well, who knew?
This was good food and we both highly recommend Crafthouse for a date night, mid-week business meet, elegant dining with friends. The tasting menu at £55 is incredible value.
Please note the Chef’s tasting menu is designed for leisurely dining and is to be taken by the entire table. The accompanying wines are optional and at £45 worth going for. No need to spend time perusing the wine list, the sommelier has already done that for you!
With a tasting menu experience, once you’ve assured yourself of the menu you can sit back, relax and just let the evening happen. Additional bonus for me following our night out in Leeds. I’m thinking Graham protesteth too much on the ‘dull boring cheddar’ stance and I’m off to the farm shop to check out the cheese counter!
Oh, and next time you’re in Leeds….. look up!
Book your Crafthouse experience
Review and photos by Deana Morgan
