Crafthouse has always been one of the city’s most reliable fine-dining spots, offering exquisite food and wine and impeccable service in an ultra-modern setting. It’s indulgent, but without being overly fussy. It’s a place you can unwind whilst splashing out. What’s not to love about that?
As ever, we’re greeted by a friendly, unpretentious Crafthouse waitress who knows her stuff when it comes to the menu. You most certainly won’t be offered an ice bucket to chill your bottle of Malbec in this joint (yes, that happened to me once in a restaurant which shall remain nameless).
The venue has also been given a fancy six-figure spruce up, and is now awash with lush green plants and a more colourful, warmer palette. It makes a big difference and creates a more relaxed atmosphere.
Crafthouse has also been the home to some of Yorkshire’s most celebrated chefs, and Simon Jewitt is no exception. As Head Chef for the past couple of years, his unique approach to British cuisine has made quite the impact. No mean feat considering the timing of his appointment couldn’t have been any more unfortunate.
Jewitt’s latest a la carte menu continues the trend of providing a relatively small yet perfectly crafted selection of culinary gems. We kick things off with a chilled glass of the excellent Gavi di Gavi and the sizeable and moreish Lindisfarne oysters with mignonette and verdita granita.
Keeping things on the seafood theme, I couldn’t resist the seared Scottish scallops, accompanied by whipped cod’s roe, roasted squash and dashi gel. Crafthouse always seem to source the plumpest scallops and these did not disappoint.
The cod’s roe was deliciously creamy and served in a crunchy, sweet biscuit (the name of this escape’s me). If you’re a sucker for scallops, you should definitely try it.
Not only was the entire plate a treat for the tastebuds, but possibly the most beautifully presented dish of the evening. My guest went with the delicate Whitby crab, served with English pea salad, preserved lemon, brown crab crackers and refreshing fennel sorbet. Another triumph of a dish, that’s almost as equally photo-worthy.
Selecting mains was another easy task for me – as if I’m not going to order the Hereford fillet of beef. The grass-fed beef was tender and flavoursome and complemented with a wonderfully salty pastrami short rib, crispy potato terrine and a light watercress purée. Sheer heaven for steak lovers looking for something a little more adventurous.
Anyone that complains seafood mains often leave them feeling hungry must seek out the Dover sole meuniėre. Arriving alongside beurre noisette, Jersey Royals, capers and samphire, this oversized fish was by far the best sole I’ve tasted.
Dessert was a little bit more of a mixed bag on this occasion. The whipped vanilla rice pudding with strawberry compote and white chocolate and pink peppercorn ganache was creamy and flavoursome – a pleasant spin on a British classic.
The Hazelnut praline mousse on the other hand lacked the usual punch of a classic Crafhouse dessert, despite its dark chocolate glaze and side of buttered rum ice cream. Nonetheless, this was once again a memorable evening of first-class food and service, that left us both pining to return.
Book a table and take someone you love, Crafthouse remains one of the best dining spots in Leeds after almost 10 years in the business.
Crafthouse, Level 5 Trinity Leeds, 70 Boar Lane, Leeds, LS1 6HW. Tel 0113 897 0444
